Concrete cutting & core drilling cost

There's no single "price per cut" for concrete sawing — the pricing basis differs by the type of work, and a small job can carry a minimum that makes it feel expensive per cut. Here's how specialists actually price the work, and what pushes a quote up or down.

How it's priced

What drives the price up or down

As a very rough national ballpark: simple residential core holes often run in the low-to-mid hundreds of dollars including the trip minimum, and flat sawing scales from there with length and depth. This is a ballpark to set expectations, not a quote — get an itemized bid for your specific job.

Getting a quote you can actually compare

Ask what the price includes: GPR scanning before cutting, cleanup, and disposal. Confirm whether the quote assumes standard reinforcement or whether it could change once the crew opens up the slab. A specialist who scans first and prices clearly is easier to compare against another bid than one who gives a number with no scope attached.

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Concrete cutting cost FAQ

Why is there a minimum charge for a small cut or a single core hole?
Mobilizing a diamond-blade saw or core rig — loading it, driving to the site, setting up, cutting, and cleaning up — costs roughly the same whether the crew is there for one cut or twenty. Most shops carry a trip or half-day minimum to cover that fixed cost, which is why a single doorway opening or one core hole can price out close to a much bigger job. If you have several cuts to make, bundling them into one visit is almost always cheaper per cut than calling a shop back multiple times.
Why do two quotes for the same job come back so different?
Cutters price around different risk assumptions. One bid may assume normal reinforcement and easy access; another may have priced in extra time for suspected post-tension cable, awkward equipment access, or heavier dust/slurry containment. Ask each bidder what's included — GPR scanning, disposal, cleanup — and what would trigger a change order, so you're comparing the same scope rather than just two numbers.
Is renting a saw and cutting concrete myself worth it?
For a shallow, unreinforced cut — a control joint or a small patch — a rented walk-behind saw can be reasonable for an experienced DIYer. For anything near rebar, post-tension cable, or structural concrete, it usually isn't: hand-held and walk-behind saws are slow going through reinforcement, the dust is a real silica hazard without proper containment, and hitting an unmarked cable or utility line can be dangerous and expensive to fix. A specialist with a scanned slab and the right blade for the material is typically faster, safer, and leaves a cleaner result than a weekend rental.